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"Where Imaginations Overflow"
Day 1 - Monday 8th May 2017
Bristol to Fort William (via London)
The exceptionally hot spring weather we were experiencing continued on and we arrived at Bristol Temple Meads with plenty of time. I was completing this trip with my wife, mum and dad. We had half an hour until our train departed at 10:00am so promptly made our way to platform twelve.
Bristol to Fort William (via London)
The exceptionally hot spring weather we were experiencing continued on and we arrived at Bristol Temple Meads with plenty of time. I was completing this trip with my wife, mum and dad. We had half an hour until our train departed at 10:00am so promptly made our way to platform twelve.
Easy Hotel
Our train was coming from Paington so was already very busy and wouldn’t hang around for long before departing again. So primed in our relevant positions like sprinters ready in their blocks we waited for the train to stop before hurriedly getting the bikes in the guards van and all of our panniers and mum and dad’s Bromptons on to the carriage – and then we were away on our Hebridean adventure!
We arrived at London Paddington on time at 11:40am. As it terminated here - we had a bit more time to get the bikes off. I told friends that I had booked a hotel in London - not to stay in, just for the shower and to get ready. To this day they still think I was joking. I wasn't. Those who know me, know I like some home comforts, particularly my showers - especially as the next one wouldn’t have been until we arrived in Oban the following night!
I managed to book the Easy Hotel (https://www.easyhotel.com/hotels/united-kingdom) in Old Street, London for £20.00 sometime in advance, so it was a bargain. Thankfully we had 9 hours before the sleeper departed, which was useful considering we had to travel four half miles in the opposite direction across London to get to the hotel.
We arrived at London Paddington on time at 11:40am. As it terminated here - we had a bit more time to get the bikes off. I told friends that I had booked a hotel in London - not to stay in, just for the shower and to get ready. To this day they still think I was joking. I wasn't. Those who know me, know I like some home comforts, particularly my showers - especially as the next one wouldn’t have been until we arrived in Oban the following night!
I managed to book the Easy Hotel (https://www.easyhotel.com/hotels/united-kingdom) in Old Street, London for £20.00 sometime in advance, so it was a bargain. Thankfully we had 9 hours before the sleeper departed, which was useful considering we had to travel four half miles in the opposite direction across London to get to the hotel.
The Victoria
Although I have been to London a few times before, I don’t really know my way around it that well and I’m not normally one for electronics and would settle for a map and compass any day. However a friend told me about a new free ‘app’ for a smart phone called Bike Hub (http://www.bikehub.co.uk/) which is a cycle specific satnav.
It has to be one of the best apps I've used for navigating! Simply entering the location you want to go and then selecting quietest route and it calculated a route across London to the hotel on a mixture of small roads, across the great parks of London and using the new segregated cycle lanes (lets hope the MPs haven't removed them by the time you read this).
We were guided up the ramp out of Paddington Station and cycled down London Street and it wasn’t long before we found a pub for lunch. Not far from Paddington station on Strathearn Place is (http://www.victoriapaddington.co.uk/) which is well worth a visit anytime you are in London. As soon as you walk through the doors, you feel like Nicholas Lyndhurst walking into the Royal Oak on the set of Goodnight Sweetheart. Apparently this also used to be a favourite drinking place of Winston Churchill when he lived just down the road on Stanhope Terrace.
It has to be one of the best apps I've used for navigating! Simply entering the location you want to go and then selecting quietest route and it calculated a route across London to the hotel on a mixture of small roads, across the great parks of London and using the new segregated cycle lanes (lets hope the MPs haven't removed them by the time you read this).
We were guided up the ramp out of Paddington Station and cycled down London Street and it wasn’t long before we found a pub for lunch. Not far from Paddington station on Strathearn Place is (http://www.victoriapaddington.co.uk/) which is well worth a visit anytime you are in London. As soon as you walk through the doors, you feel like Nicholas Lyndhurst walking into the Royal Oak on the set of Goodnight Sweetheart. Apparently this also used to be a favourite drinking place of Winston Churchill when he lived just down the road on Stanhope Terrace.
The app continued to guide us to the door of the Easy Hotel. We were allowed to put our bikes in the room, had showers and chatted away the hours in the cycle café Look Mum No Hands which was coincidentally a few doors down from the hotel.
As time went on and after my fifth coffee we collected our bikes from the hotel and let the Bike Hub app once again guide us to London Euston where we were to board the 9:15pm Caledonian Sleeper or Deer Stalker Express as it was once known, to Fort William.
Walking down towards the platform with all the commuters trying to get home, we were ushered off to the right where the Caledonian Sleeper stood proudly on its own platform with smartly dressed stewards next to each door waiting to greet us and take our breakfast orders.
Loading the bikes into the guards van along with other people also on their own adventures, we got sorted in our cabin, before wobbling our way up to the dining car where we enjoyed an evening meal on china plates and silver cutlery along with a bottle of Merlot. Nothing could be a more relaxing way of getting to Scotland. Wobbling back to our cabin, I remembered about the 3:30am wake-up call I was going to get to move the bikes!
The Caledonian Sleeper splits into three trains at Edinburgh, with one continuing to Fort William, the other to Inverness and also Aberdeen. The train staff use to move the bikes to the respective guards van themselves, however were once sued for damage to a bike and therefore now wake you to do it yourself! Getting to sleep was easy to the rhythmic da da, da da of the tracks.
As time went on and after my fifth coffee we collected our bikes from the hotel and let the Bike Hub app once again guide us to London Euston where we were to board the 9:15pm Caledonian Sleeper or Deer Stalker Express as it was once known, to Fort William.
Walking down towards the platform with all the commuters trying to get home, we were ushered off to the right where the Caledonian Sleeper stood proudly on its own platform with smartly dressed stewards next to each door waiting to greet us and take our breakfast orders.
Loading the bikes into the guards van along with other people also on their own adventures, we got sorted in our cabin, before wobbling our way up to the dining car where we enjoyed an evening meal on china plates and silver cutlery along with a bottle of Merlot. Nothing could be a more relaxing way of getting to Scotland. Wobbling back to our cabin, I remembered about the 3:30am wake-up call I was going to get to move the bikes!
The Caledonian Sleeper splits into three trains at Edinburgh, with one continuing to Fort William, the other to Inverness and also Aberdeen. The train staff use to move the bikes to the respective guards van themselves, however were once sued for damage to a bike and therefore now wake you to do it yourself! Getting to sleep was easy to the rhythmic da da, da da of the tracks.
Day 2 - Tuesday 9th May 2017
Fort William to Oban
Taynuilt to Oban Route Map (Google Maps)
We had a pleasant awakening to our steward putting a bacon roll and cup of coffee in our room which was also the que to open your blind in the cabin. Going to sleep in London and then waking up in Scotland was like being put in a time machine and sent back in time. To see nothing but mountains, trees and deer is an picture that you will never forget.
Fort William to Oban
Taynuilt to Oban Route Map (Google Maps)
We had a pleasant awakening to our steward putting a bacon roll and cup of coffee in our room which was also the que to open your blind in the cabin. Going to sleep in London and then waking up in Scotland was like being put in a time machine and sent back in time. To see nothing but mountains, trees and deer is an picture that you will never forget.
Reflection on the loch taken from the Caledonian Sleeper
Arriving in Fort William at 9:55am, we were lucky to see The Jacobite steam train waiting to leave for Mallaig, It is one of the top ten must do train journeys in the world so with a bit of planning, you could also include this in your trip. The next bit of our journey to Oban was a bit complicated and some might think unnecessary, but I would definitely suggest doing it this way.
To get to Oban, You have to get a train from either Tyndrum Lower Station or Crianlarich, which means going back down exactly the same line you had come along a couple of hours earlier. Getting off at either of those stations on the way up would have meant missing the most scenic and best bits of the sleeper trip.
To get to Oban, You have to get a train from either Tyndrum Lower Station or Crianlarich, which means going back down exactly the same line you had come along a couple of hours earlier. Getting off at either of those stations on the way up would have meant missing the most scenic and best bits of the sleeper trip.
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Route 78 to Oban
We therefore got the 11:40am back down to Upper Tyndrum and a short hop across the road to join the Oban line at Tyndrum Lower. You could continue to Crianlarich and get the Oban train from there, however if you wanted breakfast or lunch, there is probably more choice at Tyndrum in the Green Welly Boot shop and restaurant.
The Oban train arrived at 2:46pm and not knowing if it was a request only stop - stuck our hand out. It duly stopped and once again we de-kitted the bikes and boarded the train. We did book to go all the way to Oban but as the temperatures continued to rise to become the hottest May on record, we decided to get off at Taynuilt and cycle the 10 miles to Oban along route 78 which made for the perfect start to our adventure.
After having to retrieve my rucksack from the Scotrail office having left it on the Oban bound train, we arrived at the bright blue guest house of Maridon House. We knocked on the door and no sooner was our money taken, than the owner disappeared for us to find our room ourselves. The invite of putting our bikes next to a path at the side of the house didn't fill me with great joy so they accompanied us to our rooms for the night.
We were spoilt for choice for places to eat in Oban and after a few Trip Advisor searches, chose The Piazza at the end of the pier. A pleasant restaurant serving Italian food and good wine. Well recommended. Walking back to the B&B we looked out at the islands and the excitement grew of what tomorrow would bring.
The Oban train arrived at 2:46pm and not knowing if it was a request only stop - stuck our hand out. It duly stopped and once again we de-kitted the bikes and boarded the train. We did book to go all the way to Oban but as the temperatures continued to rise to become the hottest May on record, we decided to get off at Taynuilt and cycle the 10 miles to Oban along route 78 which made for the perfect start to our adventure.
After having to retrieve my rucksack from the Scotrail office having left it on the Oban bound train, we arrived at the bright blue guest house of Maridon House. We knocked on the door and no sooner was our money taken, than the owner disappeared for us to find our room ourselves. The invite of putting our bikes next to a path at the side of the house didn't fill me with great joy so they accompanied us to our rooms for the night.
We were spoilt for choice for places to eat in Oban and after a few Trip Advisor searches, chose The Piazza at the end of the pier. A pleasant restaurant serving Italian food and good wine. Well recommended. Walking back to the B&B we looked out at the islands and the excitement grew of what tomorrow would bring.
Sunset over the islands
Day 3 - Wednesday 10th May 2017
Oban to Castlebay and Vatersay - 10.6 miles
Castlebay to Vatersay to Castlebay Route Map (Google Maps)
Oban to Castlebay and Vatersay - 10.6 miles
Castlebay to Vatersay to Castlebay Route Map (Google Maps)
We bought our tickets from the booking office down at the harbour, for the first sailing of the day at 7:00am and hid in the foyer out of the brisk cold morning wind blowing off the Atlantic. This sailing would stop at the Isle of Coll and Tiree before finally landing us at Barra seven hours later. It didn't take long before we were ushered aboard and ordered to prop our bikes against some scaffolding and secured them with some frayed bits of rope, and hoping they would still be standing at the end of the crossing.
The Trip went surprisingly fast and started to feel more like a cruise around the Scottish Islands as we enjoyed a cooked breakfast followed by a cooked lunch from the on-board restaurant, with service that equalled that of some hotels.
We arrived on the Isle of Barra and went straight to the Craigard Hotel which would be our first nights accommodation on the islands.
The Trip went surprisingly fast and started to feel more like a cruise around the Scottish Islands as we enjoyed a cooked breakfast followed by a cooked lunch from the on-board restaurant, with service that equalled that of some hotels.
We arrived on the Isle of Barra and went straight to the Craigard Hotel which would be our first nights accommodation on the islands.
Remains of the Catalyn aircraft
After putting our bags in our room and a quick cup of tea we headed back off on the bikes again minus our panniers. We couldn’t come all this way without going to the start point of the Hebridean Way at Vatersay. Turning left out of Castlebay you are immediately confronted with a short sharp climb of about 200 feet to a memorial to the two great wars which stood proudly at the summit.
After paying our respects at the memorial and admiring the view of Castlebay and 'Caisteal Chiosmuil' in the evening sun, we sped down the other side and across the causeway linking Vatersay and Barra whilst a seal looked on in bemusement.
As the road hugged the island and swept around to the next headland, was another memorial and clearly the wreck of an old aircraft – a Catalyn which had crashed in 1942. Remarkably 6 out of the 9 crew survived which is hard to believe with what was left of the aircraft. It was nice to see so much of it remaining and had not fallen into the hands of souvenir hunters.
After paying our respects at the memorial and admiring the view of Castlebay and 'Caisteal Chiosmuil' in the evening sun, we sped down the other side and across the causeway linking Vatersay and Barra whilst a seal looked on in bemusement.
As the road hugged the island and swept around to the next headland, was another memorial and clearly the wreck of an old aircraft – a Catalyn which had crashed in 1942. Remarkably 6 out of the 9 crew survived which is hard to believe with what was left of the aircraft. It was nice to see so much of it remaining and had not fallen into the hands of souvenir hunters.
The start of the Hebridean Way was only a few hundred yards beyond the crash site and nowhere could have been a more stunning or inspiring place in the world to start a cycle ride!
A near deserted beach with pure white sands was the back drop and a weathered metal sculpture blended in on an embankment next to the road, marking the start of 185 miles of what would be stunning cycling, friendly people and amazing food.
We enjoyed a tea that we brewed on the Kelly Kettle that we had brought with us, whilst a scattering of people were taking photos and a couple were setting up their camper for what must be the best campsite in the world. There is even a new toilet block opposite the beach where you can have a shower for a one pound donation. Perfect if wild camping.
A near deserted beach with pure white sands was the back drop and a weathered metal sculpture blended in on an embankment next to the road, marking the start of 185 miles of what would be stunning cycling, friendly people and amazing food.
We enjoyed a tea that we brewed on the Kelly Kettle that we had brought with us, whilst a scattering of people were taking photos and a couple were setting up their camper for what must be the best campsite in the world. There is even a new toilet block opposite the beach where you can have a shower for a one pound donation. Perfect if wild camping.
The beach at Vatersay
We reluctantly headed back to the hotel. Locked our bikes in the store room and headed up for a shower before dinner. The rooms were very newly decorated and over-looked the church and far reaching hills at the rear and views over the harbour to the front. A great location for our first night.
We headed down to the bar where two locals sat drinking and chatting. Photos and posters of the 1949 film Whiskey Galore adorned every bit of wall space. Unbeknown to me, the filming of Whiskey Galore had actually been done on Barra and not on Eriskay near where the SS Politician had ran aground.
The views across the harbour soon came to an abrupt end when more locals came rushing in - ordered their drinks and then quickly shut the blinds, as if they had been ordered to by warden Hodges. A large projector screen came down from the ceiling and the football was on! Luckily we were called through to the restaurant for our dinner where we could enjoy the view once again. We sat eating our Haddock and Scallops wondering if you could ever get bored with a view like that? For some you obviously could.
We headed down to the bar where two locals sat drinking and chatting. Photos and posters of the 1949 film Whiskey Galore adorned every bit of wall space. Unbeknown to me, the filming of Whiskey Galore had actually been done on Barra and not on Eriskay near where the SS Politician had ran aground.
The views across the harbour soon came to an abrupt end when more locals came rushing in - ordered their drinks and then quickly shut the blinds, as if they had been ordered to by warden Hodges. A large projector screen came down from the ceiling and the football was on! Luckily we were called through to the restaurant for our dinner where we could enjoy the view once again. We sat eating our Haddock and Scallops wondering if you could ever get bored with a view like that? For some you obviously could.
Thursday 11th May
Castleybay to Daliburgh - 23 miles
Castlebay to Daliburgh Route Map (Google Maps)
After breakfast, we took a short diversion down the "High Street" or Rathad Na Horgh, passing the Bank and Post Office and also two bike hire shops, handy for spares and repairs if needed. There were many derelict shops which now appeared to be closed for good, presumably unable to compete with the large CO-OP just up the road?
Castleybay to Daliburgh - 23 miles
Castlebay to Daliburgh Route Map (Google Maps)
After breakfast, we took a short diversion down the "High Street" or Rathad Na Horgh, passing the Bank and Post Office and also two bike hire shops, handy for spares and repairs if needed. There were many derelict shops which now appeared to be closed for good, presumably unable to compete with the large CO-OP just up the road?
Barra airport just visible in the distance
We proceeded up the A888 which was surprisingly a busy road, meaning we were constantly starting and stopping in the endless passing places to let cars pass behind us or oncoming cars through, which was always met with a friendly wave. The route hugs the West coast of the island passing yet more beautiful beaches before it has to turn East and across the island towards Thiarabjhagh, turning off left just prior to the village and here you have the option of continuing right to the ferry or left up to Barra airport.
We only had about 9 miles to do the other side on South Uist and the ferries were every couple of hours so we decided to get the later ferry at 4:00pm and so went down to the airport.
I had already looked online before leaving the hotel this morning on the arrival times of the two planes that were landing today. We had already missed the first arrival of the day from Glasgow at 11:00am but at least we would get to see it depart.
As we approached the airport, signs read 'do not go on the beach when the wind sock is flying'. This was no ordinary airport! The beach is the runway-the only one in the world where scheduled flights land and take off and where the landing and take-off times are dictated by the tide. So make sure you try and get the times before you go so not to be disappointed.
We only had about 9 miles to do the other side on South Uist and the ferries were every couple of hours so we decided to get the later ferry at 4:00pm and so went down to the airport.
I had already looked online before leaving the hotel this morning on the arrival times of the two planes that were landing today. We had already missed the first arrival of the day from Glasgow at 11:00am but at least we would get to see it depart.
As we approached the airport, signs read 'do not go on the beach when the wind sock is flying'. This was no ordinary airport! The beach is the runway-the only one in the world where scheduled flights land and take off and where the landing and take-off times are dictated by the tide. So make sure you try and get the times before you go so not to be disappointed.
We watched the 12 or so passengers walk across the beach and board the 'Twin Otter' aircraft, before it picked up speed, skimmed through the surf and into the air. What a view!
There is a lovely café in the airport serving endless hot food, drink and souvenirs. This naturally doubles as the departure lounge and check-in hall (the baggage reclaim is in the bus shelter outside). We had a coffee and cake looking out on the white sands of the runway, whilst writing a few postcards back home.
There is a lovely café in the airport serving endless hot food, drink and souvenirs. This naturally doubles as the departure lounge and check-in hall (the baggage reclaim is in the bus shelter outside). We had a coffee and cake looking out on the white sands of the runway, whilst writing a few postcards back home.
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We headed back to the junction for the ferry suitably refreshed and up to the ferry building. A giant sculpture of two otters chasing a fish overlooked the small harbour and slipway. Unfortunately this was the only otters we saw whilst we were waiting.
We boarded the short ferry which took us 40 minutes to the third island of our trip, the Isle of Eriskay. A short climb leads you away from the boat and to a small hamlet before another causeway linking Eriskay with South Uist.
We still had plenty of time and the evening sun was still shining so we decided to stop in the nearby pub aptly named the AM Politician. Named after the SS Politician which ran aground only 2 miles from here. Behind the bar is a machete and also a bottle of whiskey reportedly salvaged from the ship.
We boarded the short ferry which took us 40 minutes to the third island of our trip, the Isle of Eriskay. A short climb leads you away from the boat and to a small hamlet before another causeway linking Eriskay with South Uist.
We still had plenty of time and the evening sun was still shining so we decided to stop in the nearby pub aptly named the AM Politician. Named after the SS Politician which ran aground only 2 miles from here. Behind the bar is a machete and also a bottle of whiskey reportedly salvaged from the ship.
A refreshing pint in the garden under the warm evening sun and we were on our way again, back towards the causeway. As you enter the causeway, on the right is a cutting in the bank - presumably to have once given you a view of the remains of the ship, now long gone below the surface.
After crossing the causeway the road turned sharply to the left passing a beautiful small harbour and up the A888 once gain for a short time. It's not long before you join a smaller road up the west side of the island passing a mix of ruins and farms. before arriving at our next accommodation at Daliburgh.
Harbour at Taobh a Chaolais
Eddie and Audrey were are hosts for tonight and they couldn’t have been more welcoming. Helping us into our room with our bags and showing us around the B&B.
We got ready for the evening and wandered the deserted A road back to the Borradale Inn, a short 10 minute walk away. It was a busy pub with a mixture of locals and other adventurers. We enjoyed Venison and Duck Terrine, Stilton and Broccoli Soup, Scampi and Mushroom Stroganoff. Suitably full and refuelled, we headed back for bed. It was here that dad noticed his first tick of the trip. We left him trying to dig it out of his leg whilst we fell fast asleep.
We got ready for the evening and wandered the deserted A road back to the Borradale Inn, a short 10 minute walk away. It was a busy pub with a mixture of locals and other adventurers. We enjoyed Venison and Duck Terrine, Stilton and Broccoli Soup, Scampi and Mushroom Stroganoff. Suitably full and refuelled, we headed back for bed. It was here that dad noticed his first tick of the trip. We left him trying to dig it out of his leg whilst we fell fast asleep.
Friday 12th May 2017
Daliburgh to Carinish - 35 miles
Daliburgh to Carinish Route Map (Google Maps)
We had our breakfast chatting away to Eddie and Audrey whilst watching the chickens peck around the garden before bidding our farewells and heading off, this time under grey skies but at least dry. We went back towards the hotel we ate at last night and to find the CO-OP for more supplies for lunch and then back past the B&B and up the A865.
The road got busier as the morning went on however a few miles up the A865 and the route diverts over to the west coast along a road where it seems time has left behind and forgotten. Ruined crofts and old tractors and work vehicles left where they were parked following a day’s hard work and now given to the elements.
Daliburgh to Carinish - 35 miles
Daliburgh to Carinish Route Map (Google Maps)
We had our breakfast chatting away to Eddie and Audrey whilst watching the chickens peck around the garden before bidding our farewells and heading off, this time under grey skies but at least dry. We went back towards the hotel we ate at last night and to find the CO-OP for more supplies for lunch and then back past the B&B and up the A865.
The road got busier as the morning went on however a few miles up the A865 and the route diverts over to the west coast along a road where it seems time has left behind and forgotten. Ruined crofts and old tractors and work vehicles left where they were parked following a day’s hard work and now given to the elements.
As the road neared the beach just after Stoinebrig, we stopped to ignite the Kelly Kettle once more for another tea of the day. The beach was littered with drift wood, old fishing nets, lobster pots and whale bones - a reminder that this was the first land the Atlantic flotsam would meet after thousands of miles.
A short cycle along and the road re-joins the A865 once more, which seemed to have got even busier. The strong South westerly wind pushed us on and past the statue of 'The Lady of the Isles' looking down from the hill to the right and a view out to the Monarch Islands to the left (which I confess I had never heard of until this trip).
A short cycle along and the road re-joins the A865 once more, which seemed to have got even busier. The strong South westerly wind pushed us on and past the statue of 'The Lady of the Isles' looking down from the hill to the right and a view out to the Monarch Islands to the left (which I confess I had never heard of until this trip).
I had lost count of the number of causeways we had now crossed as we left South Uist and were now on Benbecula. There is a general store one side of the causeway and a CO-OP on the other. A local reassured us that we hadn't missed a hurricane warning, as car after car hurried into the car park for their shop. Apparently there is only the one delivery a week and therefore everyone leaves it until delivery day to do their shopping!
Leaving the main road once again, we were hoping it might be slightly quieter but it didn’t seem to be. We passed the end of Benbecula Airport whose lights of the runway glistened in the faint drizzle now falling. We continued across another two causeways and a further two islands - Grimsay and onto North Uist.
Leaving the main road once again, we were hoping it might be slightly quieter but it didn’t seem to be. We passed the end of Benbecula Airport whose lights of the runway glistened in the faint drizzle now falling. We continued across another two causeways and a further two islands - Grimsay and onto North Uist.
A view to the small isles
Once onto North Uist, it was only a mile or so up the road to our next stop of the trip - The Temple View Guest House. Named after the view of the 13th Century ruin of Trinity Temple visible in the distance.
This wasn't one of our best stays. The smell of cigarette smoke hit you from the path up to it and remained for the duration. The rooms were very clean and tidy, however we only had a bath with a shower head to hold, which didn't work either. They did have a store for the bikes which was a bonus, keeping them from the evening rain.
A fantastic evening meal always seems to make up for other problems there might be and this certainly didn't disappoint. Once again we had fish all round which was amazing!
This wasn't one of our best stays. The smell of cigarette smoke hit you from the path up to it and remained for the duration. The rooms were very clean and tidy, however we only had a bath with a shower head to hold, which didn't work either. They did have a store for the bikes which was a bonus, keeping them from the evening rain.
A fantastic evening meal always seems to make up for other problems there might be and this certainly didn't disappoint. Once again we had fish all round which was amazing!
Saturday 13th May 2017
Carinish to Berneray - 22 miles
Carinish to Berneray Route Map (Google Maps)
There was slight drizzle in the air, but thankfully the heavy rain that we could hear beating against the window during the night had long past and the sunshine seemed to be catching us up. The A865 now seemed quieter than the day before and it wasn’t long before we had to turn right onto the A867 towards Strumore. Route 780 actually continues to the Northern tip of North Uist, however we decided to head East to visit the village of Lochmaddy.
There was a general store on the corner as we turned right onto the A867, but we had everything we needed today. After that a large war memorial towered over the road with a winding path upto it guarded by gates adorned with poppies. Again I paid my respects and went up to look at all the men who lost their lives from the surrounding villages. These were small villages and the huge numbers lost must have been devastating!
Carinish to Berneray - 22 miles
Carinish to Berneray Route Map (Google Maps)
There was slight drizzle in the air, but thankfully the heavy rain that we could hear beating against the window during the night had long past and the sunshine seemed to be catching us up. The A865 now seemed quieter than the day before and it wasn’t long before we had to turn right onto the A867 towards Strumore. Route 780 actually continues to the Northern tip of North Uist, however we decided to head East to visit the village of Lochmaddy.
There was a general store on the corner as we turned right onto the A867, but we had everything we needed today. After that a large war memorial towered over the road with a winding path upto it guarded by gates adorned with poppies. Again I paid my respects and went up to look at all the men who lost their lives from the surrounding villages. These were small villages and the huge numbers lost must have been devastating!
A smaller memorial lay at the base to ten American airmen who lost their lives when there B-24 Liberator crashed in 1943. Whilst these islands are small and remote places they too had a huge part to play in the war also.
The main road was clearly a fairly new one. Funded by European Union it ploughed straight across the baron moonlike landscape. The old road was still very visible in places, and still ride able intermittently.
When you finally get to the road junction at Strumore ensure you go the mile or two down to Lochmaddy. A small village but with lots to see and do. Taking the road towards the outdoor centre, passes the current sheriff court - looking grand but oddly out of place in what seems such a crime free environment. I cycled past wondering how often it is used. The old court house is situated next door and is now run as a guest house.
When you finally get to the road junction at Strumore ensure you go the mile or two down to Lochmaddy. A small village but with lots to see and do. Taking the road towards the outdoor centre, passes the current sheriff court - looking grand but oddly out of place in what seems such a crime free environment. I cycled past wondering how often it is used. The old court house is situated next door and is now run as a guest house.
The old road
For Sale
Further into the village is the ferry terminal to Skye, a bank, shop, tourist information and a museum where there is a lovely café and a reasonably priced gift shop selling local crafts. Reminding ourselves that we were on bikes and already had limited space - we settled for a t-towel from the gift shop and heading back to the road junction.
Turning right and up the A865 the scenery was some of the best yet. It was quiet and very picturesque. We passed ruin, after ruin before stopping next to a small loch a little further up the road where we lit the Kelly Kettle and enjoyed a mug of tea under the hot afternoon sun.
Turning right and up the A865 the scenery was some of the best yet. It was quiet and very picturesque. We passed ruin, after ruin before stopping next to a small loch a little further up the road where we lit the Kelly Kettle and enjoyed a mug of tea under the hot afternoon sun.
Turning right onto the B893 and we were back on route 780 for our next island of the trip, Berneray. We stocked up on some evening essentials mainly beer and wine and passed the ferry terminal that we would return to tomorrow for our 8:30am sailing. We did contemplate getting the evening ferry, during the planning stage but didn't want to be tied to a time, and would certainly have missed the warm welcome and home cooked food from Jackie in the Brightwater B&B.
Forecasting stone at the general stores
Brightwater B&B
Jackie was also the warden of the local hostel and was therefore akin to weary walkers and cyclists staying. The heating was up high and we put our bike in the bike store they had recently erected complete with drying lines for kit before being treated to endless home cooked food.
Sunday 14th May 2017
Berneray to Tarbert - 20 miles
Berneray to Tarbert Route Map (Google Maps)
We started the day with yet another superb home cooked breakfast and a vat of coffee, whilst watching an otter playing on a rock just outside the window. We cycled down the drive under more blue skies and cycled the short distance back to the ferry.
We had read about travelling around the islands on a Sunday, and Jackie further reiterated that it might be hard finding shops open. Whilst the locking of the play parks now seemed a thing of the past, the Free Church found the further north you go, were still keen to promote people not really enjoying themselves on a Sunday.
So far everyone on the ferry seemed to be smiling and happy as it veered to the left and right, from buoy to buoy like a pin ball machine endeavouring to miss all the rocks and small islands before docking at Leverburgh.
Berneray to Tarbert - 20 miles
Berneray to Tarbert Route Map (Google Maps)
We started the day with yet another superb home cooked breakfast and a vat of coffee, whilst watching an otter playing on a rock just outside the window. We cycled down the drive under more blue skies and cycled the short distance back to the ferry.
We had read about travelling around the islands on a Sunday, and Jackie further reiterated that it might be hard finding shops open. Whilst the locking of the play parks now seemed a thing of the past, the Free Church found the further north you go, were still keen to promote people not really enjoying themselves on a Sunday.
So far everyone on the ferry seemed to be smiling and happy as it veered to the left and right, from buoy to buoy like a pin ball machine endeavouring to miss all the rocks and small islands before docking at Leverburgh.
"The Golden Road"
We had read many guidebooks prior to leaving and they all seemed to suggest the same thing. To take the "Golden Road" which leaves the A859 in Leverburgh towards Loch Langabhat before rejoing the A859 near the summit of Grosa Cleit.
It might be bias, having not taken the original route 780 North, but if you do nothing else on this trip - take the "Golden Road"! It was very very quiet and the scenery reminisant of what you imagine of when you think Scotland.
It might be bias, having not taken the original route 780 North, but if you do nothing else on this trip - take the "Golden Road"! It was very very quiet and the scenery reminisant of what you imagine of when you think Scotland.
Harris Hotel
We stopped for lunch at the head of Loch Stocnais in the accompany of a colony of seals basking in the sunshine before climbing the 475 feet to re-join the A859. This was the second highest climb of the trip. The highest to come on Tuesday!
We arrived in Tarbert earlier than expected and enjoyed a drink in the garden of the Harris Hotel in the evening sun. The Harris Hotel (www.harrishotel.com) was to be our accommodation for two nights as we were to enjoy a rest day tomorrow.
Whether arriving by bike, for a shooting weekend or by car, everyone was made welcome and catered for. There was a bike store to the rear of a hotel and even a gun room. The bar had one of the largest whiskey collections even the most avid collector would be envious of.
Whether arriving by bike, for a shooting weekend or by car, everyone was made welcome and catered for. There was a bike store to the rear of a hotel and even a gun room. The bar had one of the largest whiskey collections even the most avid collector would be envious of.
Opened in 2016
Monday 15th May 2017
REST DAY Tarbert
We couldn’t have placed the rest day at a better time. The rain gradually got worse throughout the day so it was perfect for darting in and out of tea shops and the Gin distillery and Harris Tweed shops.
For those who like gin, which seems to be every other person at the moment. The Harris Gin distillery is a must to visit. Opened by Prince Charles in 2016 - it seems to be the place to buy the unique bottle of Harris gin or just pop in for a tea or coffee.
REST DAY Tarbert
We couldn’t have placed the rest day at a better time. The rain gradually got worse throughout the day so it was perfect for darting in and out of tea shops and the Gin distillery and Harris Tweed shops.
For those who like gin, which seems to be every other person at the moment. The Harris Gin distillery is a must to visit. Opened by Prince Charles in 2016 - it seems to be the place to buy the unique bottle of Harris gin or just pop in for a tea or coffee.
Snow Markers near the summit
Tuesday 16th May 2017
Tarbert to Loch Eireasort - 22 miles
Tarbert to Loch Eireasort Route Map (Google Maps)
As forecast the winds and the rain arrived. There were only two ways out of Tarbert - either the steep road to the right or the ferry to the left. Neither really appealed as the winds gusted to 50 mph. We left the hotel with one final mention of the loaming climb ahead of us by the receptionist.
The wind was thankfully behind us as we wobbled us the road. As we steadily climbed we looked down on inland locks which had waves on them and mountain streams that appeared to be blowing back upstream. Controlling the bike became more like controlling a bucking horse and snow markers began to appear as we neared the top of the climb at nearly 600 feet.
We gingerly descended the other side, preventing ourselves from being blown onto the oncoming side of the road and once again utilized the old road which cris-crossed the new one. At the base we had the wind directly behind us and we sped along without peddling. The landscape suddenly changed and the road cut through the middle of a pine forest which felt more like cycling through the Canadian Rockies and then thrust out into Scotland again.
We had made up a lot of time with the wind behind us and stopped for lunch near a memorial and the junction with the B8060, which also gave me time to repair my rear rack which had collapsed on me.
Tarbert to Loch Eireasort - 22 miles
Tarbert to Loch Eireasort Route Map (Google Maps)
As forecast the winds and the rain arrived. There were only two ways out of Tarbert - either the steep road to the right or the ferry to the left. Neither really appealed as the winds gusted to 50 mph. We left the hotel with one final mention of the loaming climb ahead of us by the receptionist.
The wind was thankfully behind us as we wobbled us the road. As we steadily climbed we looked down on inland locks which had waves on them and mountain streams that appeared to be blowing back upstream. Controlling the bike became more like controlling a bucking horse and snow markers began to appear as we neared the top of the climb at nearly 600 feet.
We gingerly descended the other side, preventing ourselves from being blown onto the oncoming side of the road and once again utilized the old road which cris-crossed the new one. At the base we had the wind directly behind us and we sped along without peddling. The landscape suddenly changed and the road cut through the middle of a pine forest which felt more like cycling through the Canadian Rockies and then thrust out into Scotland again.
We had made up a lot of time with the wind behind us and stopped for lunch near a memorial and the junction with the B8060, which also gave me time to repair my rear rack which had collapsed on me.
Our next night accommodation was The Loch Eireosort Inn. Just two miles away along the B8060. Inside was a gem of a place. The rooms were large, immaculately clean and very comfortable. The bar was very quaint. With old church pews and a pool table and lots of memorabilia adorns the walls from visiting guests from around the world.
The food didn't disappoint either and was all made by the owner Geraldine. There were loads of pub classics to choose from and obviously the endless fish menu. We were told there was limited shell fish as the “wee boat couldn’t get out in the weather today”. A great reminder that we weren't in some chain pub now.
After finishing our game pie and battered haddock which was the size of a small shark, we took some gin and whiskey and wandered up the road, drinking it as we watched the sun set over Lewis. Another day over and sadly only one day to go. Tomorrow would be an early start to ensure we "unfortunately" caught the ferry to Ullapool.
Evening Sun
Wednesday 17th May 2017
Loch Eireosort to Bristol (via Stornoway, Ullapool, Inverness, London) - 16 miles
Loch Eireosort to Stornoway Route Map (Google Maps)
We knew we were in for a busy twenty four hours of traveling, but all the same it sounded a perfect end to an adventure. We had our breakfast which seemed to be as much as you wanted of just about anything you wanted before mounting up and heading back along the A859.
Loch Eireosort to Bristol (via Stornoway, Ullapool, Inverness, London) - 16 miles
Loch Eireosort to Stornoway Route Map (Google Maps)
We knew we were in for a busy twenty four hours of traveling, but all the same it sounded a perfect end to an adventure. We had our breakfast which seemed to be as much as you wanted of just about anything you wanted before mounting up and heading back along the A859.
Loch Eireosort
As we trundled along the A859 there was a sombre feel as we knew the journey was nearing its end. The road got busier and modernity became more and more apparent as Tesco vans and Buildbase lorries passed by and people seemed to stop waving at each other now.
We stopped in a café and garage about 10 mile up the road, just passed the junction A858. It was a perfect halfway house between the inn and Stornoway, and other cyclist also had the same idea. In the space of 10 minutes eight others joined us and we all shared stories of where we had been and where we were going. I was now very jealous of a couple completing the route up to the Butt of Lewis.
There was a driveway to Lews Castle on the right a few miles outside of Stornoway which we decided to try, if only to get off the busy main road. Although there were no entry signs halfway down displaying no motor traffic - we decided to carry on. Presumably preventing cars from doing the short cut that we were now achieving.
Heading all the way to the water’s edge - a path lead over a small bridge before the main road takes you to the ticket office. A Tesco is conveniently situated opposite for any last minute essentials for the crossing.
We stopped in a café and garage about 10 mile up the road, just passed the junction A858. It was a perfect halfway house between the inn and Stornoway, and other cyclist also had the same idea. In the space of 10 minutes eight others joined us and we all shared stories of where we had been and where we were going. I was now very jealous of a couple completing the route up to the Butt of Lewis.
There was a driveway to Lews Castle on the right a few miles outside of Stornoway which we decided to try, if only to get off the busy main road. Although there were no entry signs halfway down displaying no motor traffic - we decided to carry on. Presumably preventing cars from doing the short cut that we were now achieving.
Heading all the way to the water’s edge - a path lead over a small bridge before the main road takes you to the ticket office. A Tesco is conveniently situated opposite for any last minute essentials for the crossing.
Once we docked in Ullapool, we had an hour wait for the taxi that we had arranged to get us and the bikes back to Inverness, so had a coffee in the Frigate café on the front whilst watching the sun set on the Scottish mountains one last time. Right on time at 6pm and a large mini bus arrived which made a perfect viewing platform for the one and half hours back to Inverness rail station.
We were chauffeured to the door of the train station and each of us took it in turns to have a shower in the station. Although £3.50 they were better than some I had in hotels and you are even supplied with a towel.
We were chauffeured to the door of the train station and each of us took it in turns to have a shower in the station. Although £3.50 they were better than some I had in hotels and you are even supplied with a towel.
Shell fish destined for London
We boarded the sleeper at just gone 8:15pm and put our bikes in the guards van along with umpteen boxes of lobster obviously destined for London restaurants, and then headed straight to the dining car.
We had learned from previous trips that if you want food on the sleeper, to secure your seat in the dining car early. Many people use it as a viewing area,preventing people wanting to eat in there. We ate and drank while the light slowly faded on the rolling hills, mountains and rivers. We knew that when we would see light again in the morning, it would be a very different view!
We had learned from previous trips that if you want food on the sleeper, to secure your seat in the dining car early. Many people use it as a viewing area,preventing people wanting to eat in there. We ate and drank while the light slowly faded on the rolling hills, mountains and rivers. We knew that when we would see light again in the morning, it would be a very different view!
London Euston
As the train pulled in to London Euston. You could sense the business even before you heard or saw it. It was a very different world than the one we got on. Commuters busily trying to get to work, heads down and earphones in.
We needed to get to London Paddington for our 11:00am train to back to Bristol and once again the Bike Hub app guided us the short distance across London once more. Although busy with commuter traffic, we were able to hang off the back of a peloton of work commuters to arrive at Paddington, before the inevitable of having to do the final leap home!
We needed to get to London Paddington for our 11:00am train to back to Bristol and once again the Bike Hub app guided us the short distance across London once more. Although busy with commuter traffic, we were able to hang off the back of a peloton of work commuters to arrive at Paddington, before the inevitable of having to do the final leap home!
